Structure energy efficiency
Question:
A lot of people talk about the different appliances that are more efficient and that’s great. But I’m starting this thread to serve as a way of commenting on structure features that help make the place more energy efficient. First item needs to be roof venting. Most houses are woefully deficient in it. So during the summer, you have the heat from the attic causing you to have to bring the A/C down further, or you find that a whole-house fan doesn’t have enough discharge opening to operate well. And if you don’t have a MINIMUM of one square foot of vent for every 300 square feet of attic space, your roof shingles warranty is likely to be VOID. (1-800-ROOFING) In the wintertime, it’s again more than just a matter of comfort Heat in the attic usually carries moisure with it, and that gets condensed out as the heat migrates through insulation and penetrations. And when there is snow on the roof? The snow gets melted from the underside, drizzles down along the roof till it’s no longer being kept heated, and then forms an ice dam. Next water gets stopped by the dam, has nowhere else to go, and so it accumulates under the shingles and soaks into the wood below. Tarpaper under the shingles may delay the process a bit. After the water has gone through the roof, near the edge, it may drip down into the wall, wetting that insulation and reducing its function. But this is what often causes the deteriorated sheathing near the roof edge, as a symptom. Very simple. During the summer, get the heat out as soon as it arrives. Attic temperature should optimally be about the same as if you were in the shade, rather than an oven. During the winter, same applies. Heat that makes its way into the attic NEEDS TO BE GONE. What, me shouting?
Response:
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> A lot of people talk about the different appliances that are more > efficient and that’s great. But I’m starting this thread to serve as a > way of commenting on structure features that help make the place > more energy efficient. > First item needs to be roof venting. Most houses are woefully > deficient in it. > So during the summer, you have the heat from the attic causing you > to have to bring the A/C down further, or you find that a whole-house > fan doesn’t have enough discharge opening to operate well. > And if you don’t have a MINIMUM of one square foot of vent for every > 300 square feet of attic space, your roof shingles warranty is likely to > be VOID. (1-800-ROOFING) > In the wintertime, it’s again more than just a matter of comfort Heat in > the attic > usually carries moisure with it, and that gets condensed out as the heat > migrates > through insulation and penetrations. > And when there is snow on the roof? The snow gets melted from the underside, > drizzles down along the roof till it’s no longer being kept heated, and then > forms > an ice dam. Next water gets stopped by the dam, has nowhere else to go, and > so > it accumulates under the shingles and soaks into the wood below. Tarpaper > under > the shingles may delay the process a bit. > After the water has gone through the roof, near the edge, it may drip down > into the > wall, wetting that insulation and reducing its function. But this is what > often causes the > deteriorated sheathing near the roof edge, as a symptom. > Very simple. During the summer, get the heat out as soon as it arrives. > Attic temperature > should optimally be about the same as if you were in the shade, rather than > an oven. > During the winter, same applies. Heat that makes its way into the attic
The best way I’ve heard is to use Ridge Vents(hot air outlet), and soffit vents(cooler air inlet). No electricity needed, just don’t block the vents. A friend of mine installed some on his house in Hinesville, GA, and he loves it. It saved him a lot of money, versus running the attic fan all the time. Works better than turbine vents due to a larger vent opening. The only disadvantage is you have to cut a larger opening, which people don’t like to do, thus they go with turbine vents and solar vents. — -Lawrence LaBranche +-) I filter all Spam using http://www.spamcop.net My website http://www.capdiamont.com . Has our genealogy/ genealogy help, renewable energy links, and LDS links. Renewable Energy Faq for new users http://www.geocities.com/capdiamont/renewablefaq.html Renewable Energy links http://www.geocities.com/capdiamont/renewable.html Also has how to convert your lawn mower to electric.
Response:
>The best way I’ve heard is to use Ridge Vents(hot air outlet), and soffit >vents(cooler air inlet). No electricity needed, just don’t block the vents. >A friend of mine installed some on his house in Hinesville, GA, and he loves >it. It saved him a lot of money, versus running the attic fan all the time. >Works better than turbine vents due to a larger vent opening. The only >disadvantage is you have to cut a larger opening, which people don’t like to >do, thus they go with turbine vents and solar vents.
I’ve had ridge & soffit vents in the homes I’ve lived in over the past 20 years or so. The opening may be larger in total area, but it’s practically invisible due to it’s location. They were installed during construction, so it’s not as if I had to ‘cut’ anything. –ron
Response:
> The best way I’ve heard is to use Ridge Vents(hot air outlet), and soffit > vents(cooler air inlet). No electricity needed, just don’t block the vents. > A friend of mine installed some on his house in Hinesville, GA, and he loves > it. It saved him a lot of money, versus running the attic fan all the time. > Works better than turbine vents due to a larger vent opening. The only > disadvantage is you have to cut a larger opening, which people don’t like to > do, thus they go with turbine vents and solar vents. > — > -Lawrence LaBranche +-)
My home in CT has them, full length ridge vent and soffet vents. I sweated badly the first two summers, then installed a shutter fan in one end. Big difference! The few watts that fan uses are well worth it to me. BTW the builder did use dark shingles, white might have helped. Monday Bill
Response:
not enough insulation in the attic? make sure the insulation doesn’t block the flow from the soffet vents to the ridge vent. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter: http://www.webconx.com/subscribe.htm Renewable Energy Pages – http://www.webconx.com Palm Pilot Pages – http://www.webconx.com/palm X10 Home Automation – http://www.webconx.com/x10 (212) 894-3704 x3154 – voicemail/fax We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children. —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The best way I’ve heard is to use Ridge Vents(hot air outlet), and soffit > vents(cooler air inlet). No electricity needed, just don’t block the > vents. > A friend of mine installed some on his house in Hinesville, GA, and he > loves > it. It saved him a lot of money, versus running the attic fan all the > time. > Works better than turbine vents due to a larger vent opening. The only > disadvantage is you have to cut a larger opening, which people don’t like > to > do, thus they go with turbine vents and solar vents. > — > -Lawrence LaBranche +-) > My home in CT has them, full length ridge vent and soffet vents. I sweated > badly the first two summers, then installed a shutter fan in one end. Big > difference! The few watts that fan uses are well worth it to me. > BTW the builder did use dark shingles, white might have helped. > Monday Bill
